Okanagan ice wines getting the cold shoulder this winter
Temperatures are beginning to drop low enough to harvest grapes for ice wine but many of the Okanagan wineries that normally make it are sitting this winter out.
Hainle Vineyards Estate Winery Ltd. in Peachland, which prides itself on being the birthplace of ice wine in North America, won’t be producing any of the product this winter.
“Not everyone’s focused on ice wines right now,” said Abhi Sharm, brand director at Hainle.
At wineries throughout the Okanagan, ice wines are among many products that have seen a drop in sales since international travel has been hampered due to COVID-19, he said.
“All of us suffered in terms of sales.”
Without those sales, the cellars at Hainle are still well-stocked with ice wine.
“The previous owners made a lot so we are good for now.”
Fortunately, ice wine – like most wine – tends to cast better with age, Sharm said.
“The better the age the better it tastes usually.”
One reason ice wine sales are down in the Okanagan is because they are popular among international visitors, especially from China and Japan, who have not been able to visit regularly since the start of the pandemic, according to Louise Lubchynski, co-owner of Beaumont Family Estate Winery in West Kelowna.
Another major reason is that temperatures aren’t dropping as much as they need for ice wine harvesting, she said.
“Not many people are doing it this year because of warmer-than-usual weather."
READ MORE: Okanagan growers poised for icewine harvest
To conform with regularity measures, grapes for ice wine have to be harvested at -8 C or lower, which is why they are often picked in the middle of the night.
“You’re always monitoring your thermostat,” Lubchynski said.
Temperatures have reached depths lower than minus eight so far this season, but not as low as most farmers would prefer.
“Minus eight or minus nine is just making it,” she said.
Last time there was a harvest at Beaumont, grapes were picked when it was -13 C outside, “and it was perfect.”
Lubchynski said grapes in the Okanagan were “really ripe early” in 2021 and all the bunches on her vineyard have been picked.
When grapes become ripe and ready to harvest earlier in the fall, they generally spend more time hanging on the vines waiting for a deep-enough freeze to occur for ice wines, Walter Gehringer said, co-owner of Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery in Oliver.
“This year was an early harvest so grapes have to hang extra long,” he said. “It’s amazing how well it does keep but the longer you go, well the fruit doesn’t improve. Then you have to spend more time keeping animals out and this ’n’ that on top of it.”
In order to make ice wine, producers have to risk leaving perfectly good grapes on the vines and hope for a cold, early winter.
“It’s like cashing in your chips when you’re gambling,” he said.
When the ice wine grapes survive to be harvested but not until later in the season, they tend to lose acidity as they become too mature, Gehringer said.
READ MORE: Recent cold snap too feeble to complete icewine harvest
Ice wines are typically sweet, “so they need to be balanced with a healthy acidity for that finesse.”
He said table wines are an important staple for any winery whereas ice wines are considered an "added bonus."
But due to unfavourable weather and a lack of international customers, the bonus doesn't seem as rewarding this year.
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